Continuing my cookbook work with chefs, I am now brainstorming with Chef David Burke on a new project. When we last worked together David was the chef at Park Avenue Café. And, here he is a few years later with a string of restaurants across the country: Fishtail and David Burke Townhouse as well as David Burke at Bloomingdale’s in New York City, David Burke Primehouse, Chicago, David Burke Las Vegas and Burke in a Box at McCarran Airport, Las Vegas, David Burke Fromagerie in Rumson, New Jersey, David Burke Prime and Burke in a Box at Foxwoods in Connecticut as well as his commercial ventures that include Gourmet Pops and Flavor Sprays. We recently have had some wonderful conversations, bits of which I would like to share. 

Having done one book with David, I am delighted to have the opportunity to work with him again as he is, without a doubt, one of the nicest people I know. And, he is the only chef that ever sent me flowers – 3 dozen long-stemmed yellow roses they were!

Talking with David Burke

JC: Since you have so many restaurants in varying locations, I would guess that you really have the pulse on how the business is holding up in these difficult economic times. 

DB: Everyone is hurting in Vegas – tourism and conventions have lessened considerably in the past few months. But, otherwise, we are doing pretty darned well – as you can tell tonight (we were sitting in a packed dining room upstairs at Fishtail). 

JC: Yes, indeed. I can’t tell you how many times I heard your reservationist say “I can give you 5:30 or 10” as I waited for you this afternoon. I was, frankly, very surprised. What are you doing to attract such business?

DB: I know that, more than ever, diners are now looking for value and we try to give it while keeping our menu innovative. We are offering more prix fixe menus at all of the restaurants and introducing a well-priced brunch on weekends to bring new diners to the table. I insist on using the highest quality ingredients which makes it very difficult to lower prices, so we have to be more inventive in how we use ingredients. Prix fixe menus are one way to do this.

JC: What about staffing – I had heard that there is an abundance of trained cooks and front of the house people looking for jobs as the economic downturn has closed more and more high-end dining establishments.

DB: Good times or bad times, it is always hard to find really great people. Nowadays, all the young turks want to be television stars as soon as they get their first job. I worked hard – and still work hard – to earn this white coat. I didn’t expect it to be handed to me, but it is sure hard to convince the young cooks that there are a lot of 18 hour days in my name on a chef’s coat. At the moment, I am really lucky with my New York kitchens – I have John Tesar at Fishtail (he was formerly at The Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas) and Sylvain Delpique at Townhouse, two really terrific chefs who know exactly what needs to be done to keep the kitchen humming. 

JC: What about the front of the house?

DB: You know the old saw about the front of the house always locked in battle with the kitchen? Well, it is more often than not true, but I do try to keep the peace by making sure that we all are headed in the same direction – giving diners a memorable night out.  Unfortunately, there are too few restaurants with the ability and time to train service personnel. Just remember, in the old days, the wait staff had to spend training time in the kitchen as they prepared sauces, salads, and meat and fish dishes table-side. This hasn’t been done for years and nowadays most front of the house personnel are people with other interests and careers. I try to understand this and still build a great crew and I know that I can be a difficult boss as I strive to give diners the perfect experience.

JC: Tell me a bit about the premise of Fishtail. Although I remember your tales of shucking clams and oysters on the Jersey shore as a boy, I still think of you more as a meat person. Why fish now, with the issue of sustainability present?

DB: For a long time I have wanted to take fish from that old broiled with a wedge of lemon. All of the fish at Fishtail comes either from Litchfield Farms, my company-owned boat out of Brielle, New Jersey or from Hunt’s Point’s top guys. My goal is to make Fishtail the first completely sustainable seafood restaurant in the country. But, I also want the dishes on the menu to be as interesting and inventive as anything I have ever done.

JC: You have just served me one of the most delicious fish dishes I have ever eaten. Far simpler than I’m used to at your table, but absolutely spectacular; butter poached king crab with parsley pureé and garlic foam. I know that I am going to dream about this dish!