Outdoor grilling days are finally here in the east, though I have been grilling all winter long on my most favorite kitchen pan – my All-Clad stovetop grill pan. I really should be given a prize by All-Clad as I have sold the use of this pan to more friends and cooking students than I can count. It does a really great job of mimicking the summertime flavors we all love.
I sometimes just use it to make those inviting grill marks on steaks and then finish the cooking in a very hot oven. Sometimes I do just a quick grill and complete the whole dish in the pan. And, other times, it works to grill a bit of meat, fish, or poultry to top a salad. For the latter, one of our favorites is grilled octopus. The base of the salad can be almost anything, pasta such as orzo or traditional or Israeli couscous, cooked bitter greens such as broccoli rabe or chard, a mix of Greek or Italian ingredients such as feta, tomatoes, arugula, or any tasty salad green.
I buy fresh, cleaned baby octopus that only demands that you rinse it well before cooking. I do rinse and pat dry. Then, I toss the octopus with olive oil, salt, and pepper and put it on the very hot grill. It curls and dances as I tong it around the pan and in a few minutes it is cooked to perfection – tender, moist, and slightly charred around the edges. If you grill it too long, it toughens and you will have to cook and cook and cook to tenderize it. So quickly remove it from the grill and cut into serving pieces and use in any type of salad.
For the salad in this photo, I used spinach, radishes, scallions, and a nice citrus-garlicky dressing – only because this is what I had on hand. I think that this will end my indoor grilling for now as the temperature has already moved into the 80s. It is time for big, fat octopus to be pre-cooked and then seasoned and grilled outside!
Citrus Vinaigrette
Makes 1 quart
5½ ounces fresh grapefruit juice
1⅓ ounces fresh orange juice
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons roasted garlic
1 to 2 tablespoons honey, plus more if needed
Chopped fresh thyme, parsley, or tarragon to taste – I use about 2 teaspoons
6 ounces olive oil
3 ounces green, spicy extra virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste
Combine the citrus juices with the garlic and honey in a blender and process to blend. Add the oils and process to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper and taste. Add additional honey, if desired.
Remove from the blender and whisk in the herbs. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks. Bring to room temperature before using.
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