At a recent farmers market, I noted that the wife of one of the Amish farmers had put her children to shelling peas so that she could offer the finished product to lazy cooks. Sold at $8.00 a pint, the few pints that the children had produced were gone while I debated my other purchases. So, being thrifty – or so I thought, I bought a sack of fresh peas in their pods from another stall.
As the day progressed and dinner time approached, I poured myself a glass of chilled rosé and set to shelling my peas. Well, I have to say that my “petit pois” were, indeed, petite, but also wonderfully sweet and delicious and went very well with my wine. By the time I finished shelling and eating, I had about ¼ cup of tiny, sweet orbs – just enough to garnish the top of the pasta dish I was making. I decided then and there that should I go into the business of shelling peas mine would sell for $40.- a pint and I would probably turn into the town drunk as I sipped and shelled.
Sweet, fresh peas should be handled with great delicacy. Only tiny ones work – those big ones are too starchy for my taste. This is my favorite way to cook them – only in the late spring, fresh from the garden.
Fresh Peas with Mint
Serves 6
3 cups tiny fresh peas
¼ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 teaspoons fresh mint leaf julienne
Combine the peas with 2 tablespoons of the butter and 2 tablespoons water over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook for about 3 minutes or until just barely cooked.
Remove from the heat and add the mint along with the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Taste and, if necessary, adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately before the starches in the peas can begin to do their work.
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