I grew up on Dungeness crab and abalone and lots of great fish but never a piece of what I thought chewy, rubbery squid passed my lips.  I was first introduced to this cephalopod through the ubiquitous American “trattoria” fried calamari with spicy tomato sauce for dipping.  Once in a great while I would have beautifully fried, nongreasy, tender, crunchy tidbits, but mostly it was the opposite that was offered.  When picky grandchildren came along and ordered fried calamari every time we dined at a favorite pizzeria, I really learned how bland and tasteless the dish had become.

Normally you can purchase squid well-cleaned and ready for the pan.  If not, they are not terribly difficult to clean, just a bit messy.  Rinse well and then, holding onto the body, pull off the head and tentacles.  The squid innards should come right out. (The ink sac will be in there and, if you are saving ink for flavoring and coloring pastas or risottos or sauces, holding it over a bowl, poke a hole in the sac and squeeze out the ink.  There won’t be much ink, but a little goes a long, long way.  Add a few tablespoons of water and transfer to a resealable plastic bag, label, and freeze for another day).  Cut the tentacles from the head, just below the eyes, and remove and discard the beak.  Remove and discard the thin cuttlebone that runs down the inside of the body.  If the squid is large, place the body under cold, running water and rub off the exterior, lightly tinted skin as this tends to toughen when cooked.  With small squid, the latter isn’t necessary.  Rinse well before cooking.

Nowadays, squid is one of my favorite foods – perfect for a lazy cook as it either has to get a quick sear or grill or a long, slow simmer.  Either way it is easy on the cook.

In the summer, the grill reigns to give a speedy char to the bodies and tentacles to be placed on a salad or sliced and dipped into some type of wonderful sauce.  Spiced Sautéed Squid is also one of my favorite dishes.

When grilling, I simply marinate the squid for 30 minutes or so in some extra virgin olive oil, lemon zest and juice, and salt and pepper; then pop it on the grill for no more than 2 to 3 minutes.  What could be easier?  This past week I did just that and then served it on a pile of sweet lettuces with a garnish of Thai Cucumber Relish (see a post earlier in the month.)  If your kitchen is nicely air conditioned, you might try the following recipe right now or, if not, wait ‘til cooler weather to experience this wonderfully spicy dish.

Spiced Sautéed Squid

Serves 6

2 pounds cleaned, fresh squid, cut into ½-inch thick rings

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Salt and pepper to taste

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon water

¼ teaspoon ground star anise

¼ cup peanut oil

¼ cup diced onion

2 tablespoons thinly sliced garlic

½ cup peeled, seeded, and diced plum tomatoes

½ cup roasted unsalted peanuts

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Pinch ground cloves

Pinch ground cinnamon

Pinch ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro or flat leaf parsley

Toss the squid with the lime juice, salt, and pepper.  Set aside.

Place the brown sugar in a small, nonstick pan over medium heat.  Cook, stirring, just until melted.  Add the soy sauce, water, and star anise and cook, stirring frequently, for about 7 minutes or until thickened.  Remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat.  When hot but not smoking, add the squid and stir-fry for 3 minutes or just until the squid has firmed slightly.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the squid from the pan and set it aside.

Add the onion and garlic to the hot wok and stir-fry for 3 minutes or until just beginning to color.  Add the reserved soy sauce mixture along with the tomatoes, peanuts, cayenne, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg and bring to a simmer.  Simmer, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes or just until the sauce begins to thicken.  Add the reserved squid and toss to coat.  Taste and, if necessary, season with salt and pepper.

Serve immediately, garnished with chopped cilantro or parsley, on a bed of aromatic jasmine rice, if desired.