If you ever want to learn how to or how not to run a restaurant call Danny Abrams, one of the best restaurateurs that I know. I first met Danny when he was just starting out in the restaurant business. He was one of a team of bosses that were initiating my teenage son, Chris, into the world of food and drink at an extremely popular and more than happenin’ spot called Lucy’s, a “retired surfer’s bar.” They did such a good job that Chris’ college education did not take him any farther away from that world.
Danny went on to open a series of extremely successful bars and/or restaurants in New York City (think Prohibition, Wildlife, Citrus, Ruby’s, The Red Cat, The Harrison among them). Some have morphed into other things and some have been passed on to partners while Danny has gone on to create the beginnings of a chain of seafood restaurants – The Mermaid Oyster Bar in Greenwich Village and two Mermaid Inns – one on the Lower East Side and one on the Upper West Side, all in Manhattan. Chatting with Danny the other day, he announced that he hoped to have 10 Mermaids or “urban fish shacks” in his roster in the next 5 years. You can bet he will and they will all be packed, nightly, with repeat diners.
As we talked, we, of course, began to reminisce about the “old days” which led to thoughts about how much change we have seen in the restaurant world. Danny was saying how difficult it is to run a small, independent restaurant these days – diners are so much more demanding and knowledgeable, the tools of the trade now have to incorporate social media (so much so, that he now employs a full-time social media co-coordinator), the economy impacts both on diner’s spending and landlord’s demands, young chefs find the work too difficult and the lure of a television career distracting, and, in general, hard work seems to be an anathema to all. He did, however, sound an encouraging note believing that the recession is over with his sales improved by over 20% from last year’s low and that diners seem to be drinking for pleasure, with wine sales growing.
I did ask where he thought the restaurant business was headed and, without hesitation, he answered “casual, less complicated food, moderately-priced entrees, and more feel-good vibes. We’ll always have fine dining for special occasions but for everyday eating out, people expect accessibility, comfort, and no pressure.” That’s exactly what we try to achieve at each Mermaid.” The food is just that, and delicious to boot. The signature dinner-ending little dish of homey chocolate pudding served at all the “urban fish shacks” guarantees it!
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