This past week I picked up the most beautiful bundle of celeriac/celery root at the farmers’ market.  In the supermarket – except, perhaps around Thanksgiving – this wonderful vegetable is usually relegated to a back corner of the produce section where it shrivels and dries to an usable warty-looking blob; probably because many cooks don’t quite know what to do with it.  But even those who do know what to do with it are put off by the wrinkled mass it becomes when improperly stored.

Although celery root has much the same flavor as celery, to me, it is richer, smoother, and sweeter than the green stalks.  I’m not much of a fan of celery – except raw dipped in something rich and zesty – but I do very much appreciate the root.  I use it in place of celery in old-fashioned Waldorf salad, mashed with potatoes, in gratins, roasted, and in pickles.

Its most famous use is in the classic French salad/hors d’oeuvre, Céleri Rémoulade which has almost disappeared from menus with the demise of most of the old-time French restaurants, at least in New York City.  I can remember it being served on a tray along with vegetables à la Grecque in all of the inexpensive family-run French restaurants that were found throughout the 40’s and 50’s on Manhattan’s West Side in my younger days.

Celery Rémoulade

Serves 6 to 8

For this you can make your own mayonnaise (see Homemade Mayonnaise, August 20, 2010 post) or use good ole Hellmans.

1 cup fine quality mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon anchovy paste

Pinch curry powder (or to taste)

2 hard boiled egg yolks, mashed

1 tablespoon finely chopped cornichons or other sour pickle

1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon

½ teaspoon freshly grated orange zest

Salt and white pepper to taste

Juice of 1 lemon

2 firm, fresh celery roots

Combine the mayo, mustard, anchovy paste, and curry powder in a mixing bowl.  Whisk vigorously to blend.  When blended, whisk in the egg yolks.  When completely blended, fold in the cornichons, parsley, tarragon, and orange zest.  Taste and, if necessary, season with salt and white pepper.  Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Fill a large bowl with ice water.  Add the lemon juice.  This creates acidulated water which will keep the celery root from discoloring once peeled.

Working with one at a time, carefully peel and trim the celery roots.  Cut each one into quarters and place in the lemon water.

Working with one piece at a time, cut the root into very thin matchstick-sized pieces.  Return the matchsticks to the acidulated water.

When all of the celery root has been cut, drain the matchsticks very well and pat dry.  (If the root is not fresh and crisp, transfer it to another bowl of clean ice water and refrigerate for about 30 minutes to freshen. Drain well and proceed with the recipe).

Gently toss the matchsticks in the rémoulade sauce and serve chilled.