The first sign of radicchio on the menu was, I think, sometime in the 1980s when restaurants began featuring tri-color salads composed of shredded pieces of white Belgian endive, deep red radicchio, and some type of salad green, often romaine or in later years, arugula. Up until this point, about the only people in America who had eaten it were Italian immigrants or their families or adventuresome gardeners. Now, many of the varieties of this gorgeous Italian chicory are available year-round in the supermarket. (Although best in their prime growing seasons of early spring or late fall).
Although there are a number of varieties grown in the States, the most common seems to be Chioggia, the tight round of deep purplish-red leaves streaked with white veins. But, you will also find radicchio di Verona (similar to Chioggia but with looser leaves) and Treviso which looks somewhat like a fat Belgian endive. The latter can be the same deep purplish-red with white veins or it also ranges in color from a pale pink to deep, dark red. There are many other varieties – some of which may be almost entirely white or some are speckled (almost like some of the heirloom beans) or striped.
Steve, my discerning husband, loves to photograph radicchio, but hated it as a food until I started grilling or roasting it. When I moved on to shredding it for pasta (just like I use broccoli rabe) or mixing roasted shreds into simmering beans, he was hooked. I also like to combine roasted radicchio with roasted cubes of winter squash – the bitter and sweet make a lovely combination.
Until recently (investigating AOC {appellation d’origine contrôllée}and other regional certifications), I didn’t know that each of the radicchio varieties is named for the region in Italy where it is grown. And, that like many wine growers and cheesemakers, Italian farmers are urging for the regional certification of all radicchios.
All of this is a simple way of extolling the virtues of an under-used green that also photographs beautifully!
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