I think that the fish guys at Citarella are beginning to think of me as “the pulpo lady” since if I am not buying it, I am inquiring about its availability.  I don’t know exactly when my love of octopus developed – I certainly didn’t grow up eating it.  And it began before I co-authored The New Greek Cuisine with Chef Jim Botsacos of Molyvos Restaurant (molyvos.com) in New York City where I learned much about cooking this extraordinary cephalopod.

Although once upon a time octopus was difficult to come by unless you had an Italian- or Greek-owned fish store in the neighborhood, it is now available, fresh, from most fine fishmongers and many supermarkets sell it frozen (which is just fine for this dish.)  Freezing is, in fact, often a good thing as it helps insure that the flesh is tenderized.  Only the tentacles and body are edible.  But none of it will be edible if improperly cooked.

Baby octopus can be quickly cooked (see post May 2009 for Octopus Salad) but I poach the larger ones before using.  I got some practice using the poaching method with Chef Botsacos and you will find the method for it along with lots of terrific “new” Greek recipes in his book The New Greek Cuisine, Featuring 150 Recipes from Jim Botsacos, the Chef of New York’s Acclaimed Molyvos Restaurant.  The following recipe is his and it will yield enough liquid to poach a mess of baby octopus or a couple of large ones.

Poaching Octopus:  Combine 1 gallon cold water with 1 cup white wine vinegar, 1 lemon, halved and juiced into the liquid, 8 black peppercorns, 4 bay leaves, and a good handful of salt.  Place over high heat and bring to a boil.  Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Put on a pair of heavy rubber gloves and, holding the octopus by the head, dunk the body into the simmering water 3 times, leaving it submerged for about 3 seconds each time.  (This is my favorite part as it is called “scaring” the octopus because the tentacles will curl up as you plunge the octopus into the hot water).  Then, you simply drop the “scared” octopus into the simmering water, raise the heat, and bring the liquid to a boil.  Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes or until the octopus is tender.

Drain well and either use as desired or cover and refrigerate for up to 8 hours.

Pasta with Octopus, Tomatoes, and Greens

Serves 6

¼ cup olive oil

1 large onion, peeled and diced

2 tablespoons minced garlic

One 28-ounce can chopped Italian tomatoes in juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

Crushed red pepper flakes to taste

2 large octopus, poached and cut into bite-size pieces

1 cup bottled clam juice

Salt and pepper to taste

1 large head escarole (or other green of choice), well-washed and chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley

1 pound package sturdy pasta such as penne, orecchiette, or conchiglie

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.  Add the onion and garlic and sauté for about 3 minutes or until just beginning to soften.  Add the tomatoes along with the basil, oregano, and crushed red pepper flakes and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.

Add the octopus and clam juice and bring to a simmer.  Season with salt and pepper to taste, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes.

Uncover and add the greens, a bit at a time, folding them into the tomato-octopus mixture.  When all of the greens have been added, bring to a simmer and simmer for about 10 minutes or just until all of the greens have wilted into the sauce.

While the sauce is finishing, cook the pasta.

Drain the pasta and return it to its cooking pot.  Add the octopus sauce and stir to combine.

Pour the pasta onto a large serving platter, sprinkle with lemon zest and parsley.  Serve immediately.