When I was growing up the only sardines we knew were those packed tightly into a can, usually in oil but sometimes in a tomato sauce.  And, frankly, I didn’t like either one.  Fresh sardines, the staple of many Mediterranean cuisines, were completely unknown in the United States until recent years.  Citarella, my local fish market, almost always has them, particularly throughout this past summer.  They are relatively inexpensive and high in some of the good stuff we’re supposed to be ingesting.

Having had our share of Pasta con le Sarde in Sicily, I vowed never to make this classic Sicilian specialty so I usually simply grill them.  However I recently remembered another dish that I had eaten in Italy and decided to pull it together for a pre-dinner snack.  I think it is a dish associated with Venetian cooking – it is simple to make and is great party food.  The combination of the rich oily fish with the acidic vinegar and sweet raisins is perfection.  This recipe is enough for 6 or so.

¾ cup olive oil plus more if necessary

½ pound sweet onions, peeled, halved, and cut, lengthwise, into thin slivers

1 bay leaf

Salt to taste

Cracked black pepper to taste

½ cup wine vinegar (red or white)

1½ pounds fresh sardines, cleaned, rinsed, and patted dry

Wondra flour for dusting

½ cup toasted pine nuts

½ cup golden raisins

Heat ½ cup of the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat.  When hot, add the onions and bay leaf.  Season with salt and cracked black pepper.  Cover, lower the heat, and cook at a bare simmer for about 20 minutes or until the onions are very soft and sweet but have taken on no color.

Add the vinegar and simmer for another 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened just a bit.  Remove from the heat.

Lightly dust the sardines with Wondra flour and season with salt and pepper.

Heat the remaining ¼ cup of oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat.  Add the sardines, a few at a time, and fry, turning once, for about 6 minutes or until cooked through and crisp.  Using a slotted spatula, transfer the sardines to a double layer of paper towel to drain off excess fat.  Continue frying until all sardines are cooked.  If the flour sticks to the pan and begins to burn, wipe the pan clean and use fresh oil to continue frying.

Place a layer of sardines in a ceramic dish.  Cover with a layer of onions and a sprinkle of pine nuts and raisins.  If needed, season with additional salt and cracked pepper.  Make 2 more layers.  If the mixture looks a bit dry, add some extra virgin olive oil.  Cover and let marinate at room temperature (unless your kitchen is very hot – if so refrigerate) for at least 2 hours before eating.  The dish will hold, covered and refrigerated, for 3 days.