I’m still blabbing about our fall trip to San Francisco.  There are 2 things we always do almost as soon as we arrive – visit Swan Oyster Depot (1517 Polk Street, 415-673-1101) and go to the Mission for Cal-Mex burritos.  They couldn’t be farther apart financially but they are both about on par with long lines and equally ardent supporters or detractors.  We, obviously, sit on the supporters side of the fence.  Swan’s has been around for years and years – never deviating from simple, straightforward service and food.  Just oysters, clams, salads and cocktails of shrimp, prawns, or Dungeness crab, chowder, smoked trout or salmon, wine, soft drinks, and sour dough bread.  If in season, I always have half a crab – the group always has oysters and/or clams and with whatever else they choose, but it is always SOS (sauce on the side).  We all love the each of the guys who serve as raconteur/owner/historian/waiter.  Baseball is huge so I always get a few words in about the old San Francisco Seals and their manager, Lefty O’Doul, who was a favorite of my mom.

Among other things, Swan Oyster Depot is famous for their Shrimp (tiny, pale salmon color curlicues – the big guys are called prawns) or Crab Louie.  The louie part is the dressing, a mayonnaise-based sauce rather like Russian Dressing.  Here is my version of that dressing.  Some people add chopped olives and/or chopped scallions, but this simple recipe reminds me of my childhood iceberg lettuce wedge with pale pink dressing sliding down the slope.

Louie Dressing for Shrimp, Crab, or Lobster Cocktail or Salad

Makes about 2 cups

1 cup fine quality mayonnaise

½ cup bottled chili sauce

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

¼ teaspoon Tabasco or other hot pepper sauce

¼ cup sweet pickle relish

Combine the mayo, chili sauce, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco in a small bowl, whisking to blend thoroughly.  Fold in the relish.  Taste and, if necessary, add more lemon juice and Tabasco.