Wild apples you say?  If you’ve ever traveled around central New York State in the fall, you know what I’m talking about – the roads are lined with straggly, crooked- limbed, ancient apple trees usually loaded with wormy, deformed apples of unknown varieties.  Some are slightly rosy while others are green as those unripe tomatoes I’ve just written about.  I’ve seen almost transparent yellow apples but never the deep red we’ve come to know as the almost-tasteless Red Delicious that fill the supermarket produce bins all winter.  Although history has him pioneering his apple nurseries mainly in Indiana and Ohio, I believe that Johnny Appleseed (really John Chapman – I love his story – Google him – I find him fascinating) must have spent an inordinate amount of time wandering the byways of the state.

This year, for whatever reason, the wild apples have not been completely wormy and yucky.  I’ve spent the last few days with an apple picker loaned to me by my dearest friend Lynn (who is supplied with every gardening contraption known), reaching for and aching for the biggest apples which always seem to be at the top of the tree.  I had to settle for lots of little guys, but each type was crisp, just a bit sweet, and with a lovely crunch.  They are free for the taking and will end up as rich, unctuous apple butter that will be wonderful on toast, stirred into yogurt, or added to a sweet-sour marinade for pork.

Apple Butter

Makes about 2½ quarts

About 6 to 7 pounds crisp apples, well-washed

8 cups apple cider

3 cups light brown sugar

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

½ teaspoon ground ginger

Cut the apples in half and place them in a large saucepan.  Add the cider and place over medium heat.  Bring to a boil and then lower the heat to a simmer.  Simmer for about 30 minutes or until mushy.

Remove the apples from the heat and, working with a bit at a time, press them through a food mill fitted with the plate with the smallest holes.

Transfer the apple pulp into a clean saucepan.  Add the sugar, vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, and ginger and place over medium-low heat.  Cook, stirring frequently, for about 90 minutes or until the mixture is very thick and will mound up in a metal spoon.

If canning, pour the mixture into sterilized jars, seal and cap, and place in a boiling water bath.  Boil for 10 minutes.  Remove from the boiling water and set on wire racks to cool.

If storing under refrigeration, pour into hot, sterilized jars, seal and cap, and set on wire racks to cool.  Store, refrigerated, for up to 3 weeks.

If you don’t want to go to all of the trouble to make Apple Butter, here is a quick fall recipe for Apple-Corn Relish that is terrific with poultry, fish, or pork.  If you don’t have crunchy wild apples on hand, use tart apples, such as Granny Smiths.

Apple-Corn Relish

Makes about 3 cups

2 cups fresh corn kernels

1 cup diced crisp apple

½ cup finely diced red onion

1 teaspoon roasted garlic purée

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

2 teaspoons apple cider

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ cup toasted pine nuts

(I love toasted black walnuts in this but they are often hard to find)

Place the corn kernels in a large, nonstick frying pan over high heat and cook, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes or until the kernels are a bit dry, smoky-tasting, and gently colored.  Scrape the kernels into a mixing bowl.

Add the apple, onion, and garlic and toss to combine.  Stir in the oil, vinegar, and cider.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Just before serving, stir in the nuts.