This past week we discovered these brilliant little Moroccan eggplant at the Union Square Greenmarket. Steve wanted to photograph them which meant that I had to cook them so they wouldn’t go to waste. When we got them home, they seemed a bit tired so after he took their “pichers” I quickly put together a rich eggplant ragú. Guess I should have done something Middle Eastern or African with them, but was too lazy to think about something more exotic. As it turned out, they were quite bitter and I would have done well to prepare them in one of the Mediterranean styles that marry them with sugar (there is the Catalan dish combining eggplant with cheese and honey, for instance) to offset the sometime bitter quality that often can’t be removed by salting. We don’t have a photo of the finished ragú as it isn’t very pretty – but it is delicious and oh! so rich.
Eggplant Ragú
Serves 6
2 to 3 pounds eggplant, chopped (I quartered the little Moroccan ones)
Salt
½ cup olive oil
2 dried red chiles
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic
One 28-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes, peeled and chopped
½ cup coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
1 package penne or other sturdy pasta
6 ounces ricotta cheese
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Place the eggplant in a colander or sieve, sprinkle with salt, tossing to coat, and set aside to drain for half hour or so.
While the eggplant is draining, heat ¼ cup of the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the chiles, onion, garlic, and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes or until the onions and garlic have begun to color. Quickly add the tomatoes and parsley and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for 20 minutes.
Rinse the eggplant and pat dry.
Heat the remaining olive oil in another saucepan over medium heat. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring frequently, for about 12 minutes or until soft and beginning to brown. Using a slotted spoon, lift the eggplant from the pan and place on double layer of paper towel to drain.
Cook the pasta according to package directions for al dente. Drain well, reserving about ½ cup of the cooking water. Return it to the pan in which it was cooked. Stir in the reserved tomato sauce, eggplant, and ricotta, adding a bit of the pasta cooking water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Scoop onto a serving platter and cover with the Parmesan cheese.
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